First sewcial visit in Paris. Gorgeous yarns, lovely curated fabric selection, and a wall of vintage buttons. “Sorry, monsieur, they are forty years old and there are only three left.”

London fabric stop. 😍🧵💸


Blue Buffalo Negroni

After sewing a muslin a couple weeks ago, I set out to make a “real” Negroni shirt. With one somewhat significant change: long sleeves rather than short. While my muslin fit well, I was having trouble envisioning it with the fabric I had in mind. I have a Pendleton camp shirt similar in style to the Negroni that’s one of my go to wardrobe staples; I love it, but had reservations about the Negroni. And then I realized the obvious difference: the Pendleton I love has long sleeves.

So I dug in my stash and found a blue buffalo plaid I’d picked up a while back that I figured out how to use it. And I realized it’d be perfect as a long sleeve Negroni.

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And it was; except for the length. When I drafted my “large-and-a-half” pattern, I took the length from the extra-large; turns out I should’ve shortened it even further than the large.

The remains of my shirt hem after shortening.

Pro-tip: try on your shirt before you hem it. Also, when you decide to add an extra button because the bottom of the shirt looks too long, the shirt is probably too long.

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After removing about 2” from the length, I had a shirt I was happy with. But I also had a pesky button hole right at the bottom. So I decided to do a little decorative surgery. I fashioned something like a wide cuff placket, and sewed it around the bottom edge of the shirt, encasing the errant button hole.

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This marks the third time I’ve sewn the Negroni pattern, and now that I know it wants to be long sleeved, I think I’ll be making it again.

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What do you do to unwind after a long week of training at work? Match plaids, of course.


Pleased with how the sleeve plackets turned out on my current work in progress. #sewing #memade #imadethis #sewqueer #menwhosew #makemenswear #menswearforall

Sewing assistant.

First of three muslins I’m working on this long weekend.

The Seamwork Negroni was the first project I tackled years ago when Carla was trying to teach me to sew. It sat unfinished in my drawer for at least four years until I got my own machine in October 2017. When I finally finished, I sort of hated it. The bright yellow fabric was a poor choice. The contrast red top stitching looked like Ronald McDonald-wear.

I pulled it out again last week and realized the biggest problem: the fit was sloppy. What worked on my chest left me with a sloppy shoulder seam. So I drew myself a “large and a half”: size L shoulders, sleeves, and neck; half between L and XL on the chest. Tried on the muslin this afternoon and I think that’s going to do the trick. Also, I have cute fabric ready for this.

Finished my @jalie_patterns 2451 this weekend, perfect for the chilly weather lately. I wound up tapering the back to get the fit right, wish I’d have five that before I started assembling. 🙄😂 . . #oaklandsews #sewqueer #menswearforall #imadethis